St. Petersburg – A Scintillating City

Posted on January 10, 2016 by Oindrila Soni under Asia, Europe, In Pictures, Russia, Travel

Last year, my first international trip began with a week-long visit to Russia. We spent our first few days in Moscow (read Glimpses of Moscow – A Photo Essay) and took the Sapsan superfast train to St. Petersburg – the more European of the two cities.

The road to St. Petersburg is coloured with water and ice

Stepping into Sankt Peterburg

Travelling as we were in the winter, I expected the city to be a sullen, grey shadow of its summer-self. But “Sankt Peterburg” (as it is called in Russian), was out to surprise me with its colours and a strange warmth in the frozen climes.

Our home in this winter-city

A Taste of Russian Hospitality

I made this trip with my parents and little sister. My folks had been wary of my travel planning skills, but they were delighted when I kept revealing one wonder after another. Our place of stay (Soul Kitchen – more on that in another blogpost) in St. P was something they absolutely loved! After all, I had booked us two private rooms at the best place in (possibly) all of Russia! 😀

The evening we entered the city, we chatted with our friendly hosts and got some nice recommendations on places to see. We had a quick dinner at a nearby cafe and slept early for the next day was going to be an exciting one! 🙂

Saint Isaac’s Cathedral – the largest orthodox basilica in the world

Saint Isaac’s Cathedral

The icy winds could do nothing to stop us from leaving our temperature controlled haven. We strutted out in our boots and overcoats and followed the map to our first stop – Isaakievskiy Sobor. More commonly known as Saint Isaac’s Cathedral, this is the fourth largest cathedral in the world. You can climb a spiral staircase to reach the roof of this building, from where you shall have a panoramic view of the entire city.

Bejeweled Easter eggs with a replica of Isaakievskiy Sobor inside

The cathedral has opulent interiors which take at least an hour to admire. There are also shopping kiosks for those looking for good quality amber and ornate trinkets to take back home. This cathedral deserves a blogpost of its own, so I will reveal more about this Sobor in that article.

A couple dressed in traditional royal attire glides past the Kazan Cathedral

Kazan Cathedral

Before you read about the cathedral, you must be aware of ‘Our Lady of Kazan’. She is a venerated icon, often regarded as Virgin Mary, and the guardian of the Russian city of Kazan. The cathedral, also known as Kazanskiy Kafedralniy Sobor, is inspired by the St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. Many events of political importance have transpired inside this semicircular splendour. It is mandatory for every woman to cover her head before she enters, as a mark of respect for Our Lady of Kazan. It’s unfortunate that photography is prohibited inside, I cannot show you the palatial and lavish interiors.

The Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood

The Church on Spilled Blood

The Church on Spilled Blood is so named because it is here that Alexander II (who happened to be the Emperor of Russia, the King of Poland and the Grand Duke of Finland), was assassinated with grenades. The church stands beside the Griboedov Canal and has mosaic interiors to match the magnificence of its elaborate exterior.

Lunch at MarketPlace - a delightful restaurant

Lunch at MarketPlace – a delightful vegetarian-friendly restaurant

A Marketplace of Happiness

We lunched at a bright, cheerful restaurant called MarketPlace. This cafe is highly recommended for its artisanal breads, fresh vegetables and a wide selection of Russian dishes. The ambiance is warm and welcoming, and the decor, homely, with pots and pans suspended from the ceiling.

On a side note, I have been so impressed by Russian food and places to eat that I’m going to write an exclusive guide to eating in this country.

River Neva refuses to freeze in the sub-zero temperatures

The Other Side of Neva

River Neva is the third largest river in Europe and has a number of bridges connecting its banks. From Nevsky Prospekt, one can see the Palace Quay and the Winter Palace on the other side of the deep blue waters. The river itself is home to wild ducks and fresh water fishes. It is difficult to describe what a walk along the Palace Embankment feels like. Pushkin puts it much better in this poem from his novel, Eugene Onegin:-

Filled with his heart’s regrets, and leaning
Against the rampart’s granite shelf,
Eugene stood lost in pensive dreaming
(As once some poet drew himself).
The night grew still… with silence falling;
Only the sound of sentries calling,
Or suddenly from Million Street
Some distant droshky’s rumbling beat;
Or floating on a drowsy river,
A lonely boat would sail along,
While far away some rousing song
Or plaintive horn would make us shiver.
But sweeter still, amid such nights,
Are Tasso’s octaves’ soaring flights.

The Palace Square with the Alexander Column at its centre

The Palace Square

The Palace Square is an expansive open space with the Alexander Column as its focal point. The column was constructed to commemorate Russia’s victory over France in the 19th century. This square has seen a lot of history – revolutions and bloodshed. But today, it’s a place for teenagers to skateboard and toddlers to scamper around; a place where lovers walk holding hands and the romantics take horse-carriage rides.

The Russian tricolour flutters atop the Winter Palace

The Winter Palace

Once upon a time, this green palace would house the Russian royal family. Today, it forms a part of the Hermitage Museum which has a colossal collection of European art and antiquities spread across more than a hundred rooms! It is said that to properly see every room, one needs an entire month. It is awful that we only had the better part of an afternoon 🙁

An exquisitely designed chandelier hangs from the ornate ceiling of the Hermitage Museum

The palace and museum complex is one of the most grandiose I have ever seen in my life. There are throne rooms that have been privy to coronations, reception rooms that have held many spectacular balls, guest suites and nurseries, apartments for the Tsar and the Empress, and umpteen private rooms, apart from the halls that housed arms and gilt.

My fingers are already itching to write another post specifically for the Hermitage complex. But right now, I must take you across the Palace Bridge to another spectacle on the other side. 🙂

Peter and Paul Fortress on the Zayachy Island

Peter and Paul Fortress

This fortress was built by Peter the Great (the ruler of the Russian Empire) on Zayachy Ostrov or Hare Island to protect the city of St. Petersburg from a potential Swedish attack. The fortress served a dual purpose of being a military base and prison for high-profile inmates.

There is also the imposing Peter and Paul Cathedral in the fortress complex which has a gilded spire that makes it the tallest Orthodox church in the world. The complex has an array of museums with separate entry fee, canon exhibits and interactive statues for photo-ops.

Someday, I shall rule from my iron throne 😛

I was in St. P for less than 3 days but I got glimpses of history spanning hundreds of years. Some trips are too short to search for answers to all the questions we have. I know in my heart that I will return to Russia someday.

First Impressions of Sri Lanka

Posted on December 26, 2015 by Oindrila Soni under Asia, Food, In Pictures, Sri Lanka, Travel

A light post-rain breeze and the smiling face of my Sri Lankan driver greeted me at the Bandaranaike International Airport in Colombo. I was on a short trip to the ‘Pearl of the Indian Ocean’ in the lucky month of August. It was that time of the year when the monsoon pauses for a bit and lets this island country enjoy some good winds.

I was excited to be on yet another foreign trip, and a little confused to see how “Indian” most things looked. The people, for instance, look exactly like those in my country and I found it very hard to stop myself from breaking into some Hindi when I spoke with them. The locals would give me a blank expression every time I absentmindedly asked them something in Hindi, and I would have to switch to English again. Sinhalese and Tamil are the other two widely spoken tongues here.

Palm Trees and Forests

Sri Lanka is almost synonymous with palm trees

I had a very stereotypical view of Ceylon. I imagined the land to be full of trees and elephants, with tea gardens and beaches interspersed in the landscape. That was obviously very myopic of me. I did find an array of palm trees and dense forest cover in certain areas which made me feel good about how green this country is. But I also discovered the industrialized side of Sri Lanka.

Colombo’s streets are full of fancy and vintage cars. You will spot the classic Rolls Royce and an electric Tesla in the same parking lot. If you notice a stretch limo easing past the traffic on one lane, you will see a cute BMW Mini on the other. I gasped at the flurry of glamorous and powerful cars on the main roads. It felt as if I was in the States or some such place. I shouldn’t have been surprised, for Sri Lanka ranks high on the Human Development Index.

Diversity in Life and Way of Living

Paintings by a local artist which succinctly summarize the essence of Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is territorially small, but has a huge variety of flora and fauna. I went there in search of elephants, but I found more animals, and even more exotic birds. The tropical climate of this nation supports the existence of diverse life forms.

Diversity here, is not limited to life though, but transcends to the culture of the Sri Lankans. Ethnic and modern styles coexist in this land. Women wear traditional cotton skirts and also designer dresses. Sri Lanka has an extensive textile industry. If you look into your wardrobe and read the labels, you will certainly find a couple of clothes with the ‘Made in Sri Lanka’ tag. Elegant tunics can be bought for a fraction of the price quoted in other countries.

Tranquility and Tolerance

Buddha statues adorn the premise of the Gangarama Temple in Colombo

Multiple religions are followed in Sri Lanka, yet Buddhism stands out through its magnificent monasteries and shrines. Many of the island’s temples are distinct in the fact that they are surrounded by water. The afternoon temperatures can soar to an uncomfortable level at times, but the temple complexes remain cool due to their unique architecture and proximity to water – the natural temperature regulator.

Where Tooth is Treasure

Sri Dalada Maligawa – a royal palace complex in Kandy

There is a popular legend in Lanka – when Gautam Buddha was cremated hundreds of years ago, his left canine was removed by one of his disciples. The tooth changed many hands over the years, mostly staying in the possession of kings and warriors. The same tooth is protected in the ‘Sacred Temple of the Tooth Relic’ or ‘Sri Dalada Maligawa‘, inside the royal Kandy palace which is now a World Heritage Site.

No Glass Ceilings in Architecture

Timber is conspicuous in its presence in almost everything you see - roof, pillars, and more.

Timber is conspicuous in its presence in almost everything you see – roofs, pillars, and more.

Throughout my trip, I did not come across skyscrapers or too many tall buildings. The area I stayed in was a cul-de-sac of beautiful double storey houses with two entrances and spacious rooms. There was always a small garden or a string of pots charmingly hung from the roof. People in Colombo generally have large parking areas for the multiple cars they possess.

I noticed in Kandy the liberal use of timber in roofing. The rustic yet grand structures I saw in the Central Province told me that the Lankans like to stay close to their roots.

Calls of Nature

Spot Billed Pelican - exotic and endangered

Spot Billed Pelican – exotic and two places short of endangered

I thought Sri Lanka was very polite in how little noise they made. You will find crowded places relatively noiseless and streets largely free of honking. This always comes as a relief for someone travelling from India, where you could almost get used to all the noise.

If you listen carefully though, you will hear unfamiliar sounds. At Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage, I heard the big animal’s trumpet. As I crossed the bridge of the Gangaramaya Temple in Colombo, I heard the echoing squawks of pelicans. In the Beira Lake, I saw a scoop of spot billed pelicans washing their plumage in the green water. I later found out that this specie is near threatened. The island is still very lucky to enjoy a tropical climate which nurtures so many rare species of plants and animals.

Birds of Another Kind

Kites fly in the burning sky

When I went to the Galle Face Beach to watch the sunset, what I saw in the skies were man made birds – kites. A mishmash of coloured rhombuses with long trails of bow-tied tails fluttered in the evening sky. They always tell you the Sri Lankan beaches are beautiful. What they don’t tell you is how surreally splendid the sunsets on those beaches can be. Sun can be an ace painter when it washes the sky in hues of warm yellow to fiery orange. The presence of clouds and the reflection of blue waters can sometimes lend the sky a soothing violet tone also.

Mornings in the Mountains

Kandy is crowned by hills

Ceylon surprised me everyday. One night I would dream of the gorgeous sunset at the beach, the next morning, I would wake up in the hills! Kandy was much cooler than Colombo as it sat on a plateau with a crown of hills locking in the cold. Whether I was in the plains or in the hills, the lakes and the lush green foliage was everywhere. It is no wonder then that the air is crisp and clean – just how I like it. 🙂

Spicy Much?

Kottu – Sri Lanka’s spicy quick-meal

After the day’s explorations, when you sit down to eat, you will have many dishes to choose from. I, being the true traveller I am, would always only order a local dish. I figured I couldn’t keep up with the Sri Lankan standards though, for the spiciness was a tad too much for me. I wiped my tears through plates of Kottu, jackfruit curry, salty tapioca string hoppers and other spicy things. I did enjoy watalappam (a dessert of coconut custard pudding) though.

Find Sanity in a Renovated Asylum

The Arcade Independence Square glitters in the evening lights

When you visit Colombo’s favourite shopping complex – the Arcade Independence Square, you will not realize that more than a century ago, this used to be a lunatic asylum. The building is immaculately white and looks inviting, especially at nights when the fountains come on. Behind the giant windows of the facade, you will find many restaurants and boutique stores. You may not be able to linger here for too long though, for everything closes by 11pm.

* * *

Today was a teaser. One of these days, when you revisit my blog, you will find spotlight posts on Colombo, Kandy and more.

What were your thoughts on Sri Lanka before you read mine? If you have travelled to this island nation before, did you discover something I didn’t? I look forward to your comments. 🙂

Lavasa – A Lyrical Journey in the Rains

Posted on November 9, 2015 by Oindrila Soni under Essay, In Pictures, Lavasa, Travel

I can open your eyes

Take you wonder by wonder

Over, sideways and under

On a magic carpet ride

The carpet of smooth road welcomes us to Lavasa

These lines from my favourite song in the Aladdin movie rang in my ears as we zipped through the mountain trail on our first monsoon roadtrip for the year. The road almost sang for me as it curved and split and sloped with alarming swiftness beneath us, almost taking us on a magic carpet ride over the Western Ghats! I slid the car window down to feel the winds getting stronger as we gained altitude on the road to Lavasa. And after about five hours of playing hide and seek with the rains all along the path, we reached our destination. Hidden somewhere between the hills of the mighty Sahyadri range, a charming little city gleamed in the afternoon sun. I could not believe I was still in Maharashtra!

Just before the thunder split the sky

As the car eased into the driveway of our hotel – Mercure Lavasa, I made a mental note to find out why this city looked so Mediterranean. Weary as I was from the long drive, I almost flopped on my bouncy bed, but I realized I hadn’t had lunch. So, off we scurried to Mercure’s Celebration restaurant, and got hold of a table by one of the French windows. A view like that could only be enjoyed with Italian mains! After the appetizing meal of spaghetti and mushroom, we gathered our camera lenses and tightened our shoelaces – it was time for action!

Spaghetti with olives and grilled bread

As we walked through Lavasa, I learned that this planned hill station is modeled on the Italian fishing village of Portofino. Orange, yellow and brick red coloured buildings dazzled from afar. This was the Waterfront Shaw which framed the shimmering blue waters of the Wasargaon Lake. These waters are boundless in the scenes they reflect, yet restrained by the Wasargaon Dam. The mountains that guard Lavasa have an appeal of their own – they are gentle in their incline but strong when it comes to carrying entire villages on their backs.

The waterfront at Lavasa

My train of thoughts was broken by a little kid calling out to her father. She insisted on getting on the trackless toy train that chugged along Portofino Street. It was only then that I took my eyes off the mountains and looked around me. The lakefront promenade was lined with a host of counters that let one try everything – from miniature golf to adventure sports. Instantaneously, I broke into a smile as I knew just how I would spend the rest of my evening!

The toy train is coming!

“Burma bridge crossing” was first on my list. This adventure sport can actually mislead people into thinking all bridges in Burma are made of ropes and only luck can help you go across. The operator from XThrill Adventure Sports warned me cheekily not to ask for help if I got stuck on the bridge. He hurriedly plonked a yellow helmet on my ashen face, straightened the harness around my waist and told me he’d see me on the other side. I held on to the rope railings for dear life as I wobbled across the rope bridge, stepping on one knot at a time. Zip lining, the next thing on my list, was a breeze after the Burma bridge ordeal. Zip line is also called Flying Fox, though you don’t quite feel foxy as you fly from one point to another, suspended only by two ropes. We tried our hand at archery and shooting before heading back to our hotel.

I tight-rope-walked across the Burma bridge

This hill city has a handful of business hotels and resorts, but not much for the budget traveler. In Lavasa, be prepared to loosen your purse strings! There are some cafes that dot the waterfront. If you love people-watching, you can sit and sip a different coffee under a different awning every time you pass a café by. For visitors who like to “feel” a place as opposed to tick things off a checklist, I recommend alfresco dining. No music is more melodious than the whistle of the wind, and no décor as enchanting as the mood of the sky.

The soothing sounds of water against rocks

Back at Mercure, we realized we still had some light before dusk would swallow the place. So, we decided to walk on the other part of Lavasa. Right outside our hotel, we heard a stream gurgling loudly with no other sound adulterating it. We walked past rows of single storey and double story houses which had no occupants but a guard to keep an eye on them. I guessed that many real estate investors have second homes here, but choose to stay in bigger cities. I cannot fathom why one would prefer noisier cities to the tranquil tunes of nature. In some time, the sky darkened with clouds and we strolled back to our hotel. I was a little upset that water-sports was closed in the rains. I just could not get the image of that expanse of hypnotizing blue out of my head.

The sky darkens

To get my spirits up, we ordered Italian again. We had ravioli with some wine for dinner and then went out one more time to look at the diamonds that had scattered all over the night sky. The best thing about a weekend getaway to the hills is the crisp air and the clear skies. Stargazing is a luxury one cannot afford in big cities where light pollution is rampant. Over a bottle of Bordeaux and under a sheet of stars, we exchanged stories of our past and toasted to a brighter tomorrow.

Washed by the rains, the city gleams again

Washed by the rains, the town gleams again

We were greeted next morning by an intermittent drizzle that kept most of the tourists indoors and left all of Lavasa to us. With no group to trek with, we explored the place further on our own and spotted many a rare blossom and insects crawl out in the rain. Monsoon, I have observed, is more beautiful when you get out there and explore. A warm mug of coffee can only soothe your throat, not your soul. Rains are not for us to sit and watch from the confines of our glass walled homes. Rains are the Earth’s way to communicate with us. And we must reciprocate – by walking, running, driving and dancing in the downpour.

The hill station from the top

From where I stood, I saw at a distance, all the touristy cottages perched precariously on the hills. I knew then that I had escaped the tourist trap and wandered where only travellers could! I could then hear the true song of Lavasa.

Blessed by the heavens, Lavasa is crowned by a tiara of hills

Useful Information:-

Arrange your hotel bookings in advance, especially if you plan to visit over a weekend. Tourists start trickling in mostly in the monsoon.
Lavasa does not have an airport. The closest international airports are in Pune and Mumbai. There are also no trains or buses that connect Pune / Mumbai to Lavasa. Travelling by car is recommended. Besides, the enthralling views along the route are best enjoyed on a long drive!
If you are travelling in a bigger group, do not miss the morning tour conducted by Nature Trails.
For running enthusiasts, the Lavasa Hill Run is the cherry on the pie! Even if you are training for another marathon (see Running in Lithuania – My First Half Marathon Abroad), the hills of Lavasa could be your practice pit!
If you have more time on your hands, squeeze in a visit to Bamboosa – the bamboo factory. You can also request for a tour of the entire area, interact with the workers and see how a bamboo product is made – start to finish.

Glimpses of Moscow – A Photo Essay

Posted on April 6, 2015 by Oindrila Soni under Essay, Food, In Pictures, Russia, Travel

Last month was a magical whirlwind for me. I quit my job, romanced Russia for a week, and returned to India to start at a new workplace… with a promise to return to my new found love. I have plenty of untold stories lined up for you in a series of posts dedicated to Moscow and St. Petersburg. Here is a teaser of all that awaits you… a glimpse of the capital city of Moscow:-

Cathedral of Saint Basil – A Beauty since 1561

The Cathedral of Vasily the Blessed

Legend has it that the then Tsar of Russia, Ivan the Terrible, asked the architect of this world famous landmark if he could build such a beautiful structure again. To that, Postnik Yakovlev, the architect, replied, “I will design a hundred such magnificent buildings at your command, my Lord!” Ivan promptly ordered Postnik to be blinded, so there would not be anything like St. Basil’s Cathedral elsewhere in the world.

GUM Mall – Where Heritage meets Contemporary

The enchanting interiors of Gum Mall

Located at Red Square – the city centre of Moscow, GUM has been in existence for over 120 years. The heritage architecture of the building and the old-style decor on the exterior of the facade will not let you believe that a modern shopping centre flourishes inside!

Old Arbat Street – A Fine Example of Starting Over after all has been Destroyed

A local in the traditional Russian attire on Old Arbat Street

A posh locality in Moscow, the 600-year old Arbat Street was gutted in a catastrophic fire in 1812. After it was rebuilt, this august street has been home to famous Russian writers, Pushkin being one of them. This street is now a popular shopping area for tourists looking for souvenirs.

Moskva – The River that gave Moscow its Name

The glittering Moskva River at night

The Moskva river flows under majestic bridges that link various parts of this city. Book a cruise and watch Moscow from one bank to another as you float across the city that borrowed its name from the eponymous river. You cannot miss the dazzling Radisson Royal Hotel on your way!

Kremlin and the Icons that make up the Complex

A slice of Red Square – State Historical Museum (centre) and Kazan Cathedral (right)

The Moscow Kremlin is a triangular enclosure that sits on Red Square and houses the President of Russia. It is surrounded by famous monuments – St. Basil’s Cathedral, Lenin’s Mausoleum, the State Historical Museum, Kazan Cathedral, GUM Mall, Iberian Gate and Chapel, Moscow City Hall, and several other prominent cathedrals.

Mementos that will remind you of your Moments in Moscow

Matryoshka dolls gathered in a huddle

Moscow is a souvenir-collector’s paradise. Every little item of prominence is steeped in history and some cultural importance in Russia. The ever-so-popular matryoshka dolls that open up to reveal smaller dolls inside them are symbols of life and womanhood. The doll-in-doll mechanism highlights how every woman has found her life through another – her mother, and how this chain is endless. [Stay tuned for my post on shopping in Russia for some tips and more pictures of all the wonderful things you can buy!]

Tsaritsyno – A Castle in the Snow

Tsaritsyno Castle on a bed of fresh snow

On the outskirts of Moscow hides the dreamy castle of Tsaritsyno. Away from the madding crowds, this secret is known to few travellers. The palace is surrounded by a forest on one side and lakes and gardens on the other. You will need to come out of your comfort zone to get a real feel of Russia!

Golubtsy – Russia’s Love-Letter to your Palate

Golubtsy – a gastronomical delight!

Russia has many gastronomical surprises for you, especially if you are vegetarian (as I am). From flavourful borscht to piroshki stuffed with all things delightful, Russia has a treasure trove of exotic and traditional dishes for you. Your tastebuds will thank you for the variety and bursts of flavour! [Don’t miss the exclusive culinary edition coming soon on my blog!]

Domes that Colour the Skies

The Church of the Holy Trinity at the Borisovo Ponds

Moscow has a number of beautiful churches, chapels and cathedrals. The tranquil atmosphere aside, these structures have intriguing architectures. The spires and domes are intricately carved and painted in a riot of colours. The Holy Trinity Church on the way to Domodedovo International Airport looks spectacular with its blue domes and golden emblems.

4 Levels of Metro – What Keeps this City Moving!

Muscovites taking the metro to work

Moscow has an extensive metro circuit that extends across 4 levels and connects all of this ‘metro’politan city. The metro-circuits were built in circles, tracing the roads that run above them. The roads were constructed in rings around the city centre, and a new ‘ring’ was added whenever the need was felt to expand the city. This is also why the Mayor of Moscow is sometimes called Lord of the ‘Rings’. 😉

This is the end of today’s post, but the beginning of a journey you all have just embarked on with me. Let me hear all your questions and suggestions for the posts to come! If you are planning a trip to Russia, let me know if you want me to touch on anything specific. I want this virtual globe-trot to benefit you just as much as it titillates you!